Renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, but thankfully also known by its colonial name, this is Mumbai’s top museum and arguably the best in India, providing an extensive and accessible introduction to Indian history and culture. The Indo-Saracenic building itself is rather lovely, but it is the collection that is outstanding, not least because it is well laid out (unlike the collections of most museums throughout the subcontinent) and aided by a useful audioguide highlighting “Curator’s Choice” exhibits.
The central hall features a “précis” of the collection, but don’t stop there — from sculptures of Hindu deities to beautiful temple art, Buddhist thangkas from Nepal and Tibet to gruesome Maratha weaponry, there is much to see. Highlights are found on the first floor: Among them are the spectacular collection of more than 2,000 miniature paintings representing India’s various schools of art (look for the portrait of Shah Jahan, creator of the Taj Mahal), and the exhibit relating to the Indus Valley Civilization (which is remarkably civilized considering that it dates from 3500 B.C.). Least impressive is the natural history section with its collection of stuffed animals.