This classy, well-appointed restaurant, also located in The Oberoi, is a great place to sample the traditionally rich cuisine of the Northwest Frontier as well as lighter, home-style dishes. Kebabs are a specialty here, and the robust Kabuli raan (soft, fragrant, and utterly delicious, prepared a day in advance to enable the meat to stew in its own juices and assorted spices) in particular has long been hailed the best in the city. Home-style dishes include dahiwali bhindi (okra cooked in yogurt) and lasuni palak (delicately flavored garlicky spinach); the latter, especially, is a perfect complement to the heavier meat dishes.
Mop up the butter-soaked, sinfully rich Kandahari or Kaali dal (black dal) with pudina paratha (mint bread) or zaafraani naan cooked with saffron and poppy seeds. One letdown was the laal maas (literally translated, “red meat”), a Rajasthani specialty, that didn’t live up to its potential — it was smothered rather than spiced with clove. Skip ahead to dessert: The malpua with rabri (pancake topped with sweet, thickened milk and nuts) is excellent. Or ask for one of the homemade kulfis (ice creams). Wash it all down with a refreshing shikanjvi, a tall glass of lemonade with masala spices and a slice of lime. The meal is accompanied by live Indian classical instrumental music. (Note that Kandahar hosts regular food festivals; if you’re around, don’t miss one — you’re sure to sample some unrivaled delights.)