Dining at this exclusive eatery makes you feel like royalty, beginning with the red velvet throne-like chairs that extend several feet behind your head. Sleek black tables dip gently in the center and counterpoint the straight, modern lines of this chic restaurant, reflected in a larger-than-life mirror on the wall. Take your pick from three seven-course set menus: Emperor, Empress, or Princess (vegetarian), which change periodically. First to be delivered is dim sum (small bites), each with matching sauce. Next up is Silken Pillow Talk, superb miso soup with seaweed and squares of tofu.
Then, if you ordered the Emperor set menu, you’ll be served delicately steamed grouper (aubergine for the vegetarian option) with a hint of scallion, followed by shredded lamb that’s been slow-cooked to perfection and topped with garlic cream, served in a martini glass. King prawn comes next, or grilled zucchini and broccoli florets, the latter with a strong wasabi mayonnaise.
By the time the main course (unagi, tenderloin, or chicken, infused in Chinese rice wine, or the vegetarian counterpart of mixed mushrooms, sautéed snowpeas, and broccoli) arrives, you’ll probably be sated, which is just as well — the finale, the fruit-based “tree of life,” deserves full marks for presentation but is something of a letdown. Overall, this is a classy affair — perfect for a celebration dinner or a special treat. Note that the restaurant offers an a la carte menu (though it’s not what Henry Tham is famous for) and a separate (much cheaper) lunchtime set menu.